[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":18},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-fade-shots-how-to-turn-a-slice-into-a-playable-fade":3},{"slug":4,"title":5,"subtitle":6,"image":7,"imageAlt":8,"category":9,"html":12,"wordCount":13,"prev":14,"next":17},"how-to-turn-a-slice-into-a-playable-fade","How to Turn a Slice Into a Playable Fade","A fade is planned, starts on line, and falls softly; a slice is usually a face-control problem wearing a fancy name.","\u002Fimg\u002Ffade-shots\u002Fhow-to-turn-a-slice-into-a-playable-fade_how-to.png","How to Turn a Slice Into a Playable Fade illustration",{"slug":10,"title":11},"fade-shots","Fade shots","\u003Cp>Many golfers call their slice a fade because it sounds better. The ball starts left or right, curves too much, loses distance, and finishes in trouble. A playable fade is different. It starts on a chosen line, curves a predictable amount, and lands with enough control to hold the fairway or green. You do not have to eliminate left-to-right movement. You have to organize it.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>The path from slice to fade starts with understanding what the clubface is doing.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Ch3>Know the Difference\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>For a right-handed golfer, a fade generally starts slightly left of the target and curves gently right. A slice often starts left and peels hard, or starts right and goes farther right. The face is open relative to the swing path, and the gap between face and path is too large.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>A good fade needs a small gap. The clubface should be only a little open to the path, while still aimed close enough to control the start line.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Ctable>\n\u003Cthead>\n\u003Ctr>\n\u003Cth>Ball flight\u003C\u002Fth>\n\u003Cth>Likely pattern\u003C\u002Fth>\n\u003C\u002Ftr>\n\u003C\u002Fthead>\n\u003Ctbody>\n\u003Ctr>\n\u003Ctd>Starts left, curves slightly right\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003Ctd>Playable fade\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003C\u002Ftr>\n\u003Ctr>\n\u003Ctd>Starts left, curves sharply right\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003Ctd>Face too open to path\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003C\u002Ftr>\n\u003Ctr>\n\u003Ctd>Starts right, curves right\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003Ctd>Face open to target and path\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003C\u002Ftr>\n\u003Ctr>\n\u003Ctd>Pulls left with no curve\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003Ctd>Face closed or path too far left\u003C\u002Ftd>\n\u003C\u002Ftr>\n\u003C\u002Ftbody>\n\u003C\u002Ftable>\n\u003Ch3>Fix the Start Line First\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Before worrying about curve, learn where the ball starts. Put an alignment stick or club on the ground for your target line. Pick a start window a few yards left of the final target. Your first goal is to start the ball through that window, even if the curve is not perfect yet.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>If the ball starts too far right, the face is too open at impact. Strengthening the grip slightly, feeling the lead wrist flatter, or reducing tension in the hands can help. If the ball starts too far left and dives, the face may be too closed or the path too steep and across.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Ch3>Make the Curve Smaller\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Most slicers do not need more cut spin. They need less. Try the \u003Cstrong>three-yard fade drill\u003C\u002Fstrong>:\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Col>\n\u003Cli>Take a 7-iron and aim the clubface almost at the target.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003Cli>Set your body slightly left of the target.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003Cli>Make a three-quarter swing with a balanced finish.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003Cli>Try to curve the ball only a few yards.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003Cli>If it curves too much, soften the path left or square the face earlier.\u003C\u002Fli>\n\u003C\u002Fol>\n\u003Cp>The smaller swing helps you feel control instead of rescue.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cblockquote>\n\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Fade cue:\u003C\u002Fstrong> Swing left enough to shape it, not so far left that you wipe across it.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003C\u002Fblockquote>\n\u003Ch3>Do Not Aim Into Trouble\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>A common mistake is aiming down the left tree line and hoping the slice comes back. That makes the big miss disastrous. A playable fade strategy gives the ball room to curve while choosing a target that still works if the shot stays fairly straight.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>On a dogleg right, that might mean aiming at the left-center fairway, not the cart path. Into a green, it might mean aiming at the left half instead of a tucked left flag. You are building a pattern, not gambling on a rescue curve.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Ch3>Check Your Driver Separately\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>A fade with irons does not automatically mean a controlled driver fade. The driver has less loft, more speed, and more curve potential. Tee height, ball position, and attack angle can exaggerate a slice.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>For driver, feel a wider takeaway and a finish where your chest turns through the ball. Many slicers stall the body and throw the hands, leaving the face open. A smooth finish facing the target is often a better cue than trying to manipulate the clubhead.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Ch3>Own the Shape You Can Repeat\u003C\u002Fh3>\n\u003Cp>Some players spend years trying to turn a natural fade into a draw they cannot trust. There is nothing wrong with playing left-to-right golf if the curve is predictable. Plenty of excellent golfers prefer seeing the ball fall softly to the right.\u003C\u002Fp>\n\u003Cp>The upgrade is moving from accidental slice to intentional fade. Start it in a window, curve it a manageable amount, and choose targets that respect the pattern. Once the ball flight has rules, you can use it instead of fear it.\u003C\u002Fp>\n",688,{"slug":15,"title":16},"how-to-practice-fade-shots-under-pressure","How to Practice Fade Shots Under Pressure",null,1783416582740]